About the materials used in eyeglasses/sunglasses I METRONOME-Tokyo Online

Our shop also lists the "materials" of eyeglasses/sunglasses. Depending on the "material", eyeglasses/sunglasses can show various expressions.

Celluloid Major manufacturing countries: Japan > Korea > Taiwan

In the past, plastic frames were primarily used. As of 2022, the cost of materials has risen significantly due to crude oil prices and, rumored, the explosion in Lebanon.

Due to its high flammability, it is a product that requires considerable care, such as spraying water on it when sharpening, and METRONOME and our own projects are subject to restrictions on shipping it overseas (it is still okay to ship it to Korea, Taiwan, etc., but not to the EU or the US), so for brands that mainly ship overseas, almost 99.9% of them do not use, or rather cannot use, this material.

The temples do not require core material (perhaps this is the biggest advantage from a design perspective), and at one point I considered making frames that were only available in Japan, but the idea was scrapped because the materials available in Japan were not stable and there was a lot of debris in the clear fabric.
(This garbage was pretty bad.)

If we could get good quality fabric, we would like to produce a limited number of items... Celluloid is known for its gloss and transparency. There is no need for celluloid that has lost its transparency due to waste. In fact, I think that factories that have a stable supply of this material (beautiful texture) still have a long way to go.

It's a good thing, so I would really like to create one myself, but unfortunately it's difficult when the main battlefield is overseas.

Acetate This is where most glasses are manufactured.

Acetate is a synthetic resin derived from plant fibers that overcomes the drawbacks of celluloid, which is difficult to manage and maintain quality. It is also a material that our shop specializes in.

This material is the easiest to handle and process, and anyone with a bit of skill can work with it with just a jigsaw and a file. All of the "plastic frames" at our company are made from this material. (The "at our company" part will be explained later.)

It is characterized by a wide variety of textures, and the prices of raw materials vary widely. Famous manufacturers include "Matsukeri" and "Daicel," and there are also many fabric brands from Chinese manufacturers.
So, I usually use "Daicel" or "Jinyu", and I have a mysterious rule that only blue-toned (cool colors, blue or green) fabrics are "Matsukeri".

In terms of price

Matsukeri > Daicel > Jinyu

That's how I feel, but it seems that when you order in Japan, almost all manufacturers send products made in China (except Matsukeri, who sometimes sends them from their Italian headquarters when planning fabrics with complex texture designs or cool colors), so I don't think you need to be too strict about this. (However, I personally think that none of the manufacturers have the same expressive power as Matsukeri when it comes to cool colors.)

It's said to be a little heavy, but there are other materials like compressed acetate, so it's hard to generalize. Some manufacturers use pineapple pressing, which is fine, but the pineapple isn't dry.

They come out squishy. And yet they're expensive. Any plastic frame maker would nod in agreement and say, "The fabric that fits is mostly Matsukeri." So, it's not like you can just say, "Matsukeri is the best!" I mean, it's strange that they've commercialized it. It's nothing but terrifying! That's how it is.

The main reason for this is that when the board is made, it still contains moisture, which causes it to warp.

As a solution

・Serve it without any hesitation, saying "It's Matsukeri! It's expensive!" (Just don't make the customer think it's a defect!)

That may be the majority, but I can't do it,

・Disadvantages of using dried dough (aged in a storehouse for about a year): You cannot ride the latest trends for about a year, and it takes time to age after preparation.

- The disadvantage of forced drying is that it costs more, so these are the two points mentioned above.

It's always nice to find some good dough lying around in the storehouse. Or, and this is a little tip, you can try layering it with the aforementioned clear dough that has been aged (it doesn't have to be clear, just a hard dough that has been aged) by pressing it against the grain.

It's the same logic as a guitar neck, where multiple layers of wood are stacked to create a "3-piece" or "7-piece" neck, and the theory goes that the more layers there are, the stronger the acetate becomes. The logic behind this is exactly the same: a "core" (also called "core gluing" or "shooting") is used to prevent warping and when warping occurs, and in the case of a guitar, a "truss rod" is embedded.

I've gone off on a bit of a tangent here, but that's basically it: acetate is great!

And one more thing.

Recently, we have started to offer custom matte finishes, but do you know why we don't only do it on the inside?

For some reason, both acetate and cellophane gradually become whitish in parts as they are used, as if they have been matte-finished. This can be fixed by polishing (using a buff), but polishing makes them shiny again. When this happens, the matte finish must be applied again, and each time the printing is erased, so you have to re-apply it.

Therefore, please take good care of frames that are matte on the inside. (On the other hand, repairs are extremely time-consuming and expensive. Also, losing the printing is a bad sign for the brand.)

Wood
Major manufacturing countries: China > Taiwan > Southeast Asia > Japan > Italy > Spain

In the first collection, there were several models that used bamboo in parts, but for our shop, we don't have the courage to go all wood.

The cause is,

- "It's hard to get the right fit, and it's hard for the optician to fit them," this is now the norm.

However, our shop designer actually likes them and has been showing their collections to Chinese and Italian manufacturers at exhibitions. (The cork ones are great, aren't they?)

However, it's possible to create something that looks like fake wood using acetate... (By selecting a fabric with a water-washed texture, heating it to just before its melting point, and processing it with a paintbrush, using a technique called "brushing," you can create a very similar wood grain "look." This is the case with the metallized fabric from the first collection.)

So, you might be thinking, "Well, wouldn't acetate be fine?"

However, the materials used in the house can make a big difference in the atmosphere, like the recently popular "red cedar lining the entrance!" or "wood-grain ceramic siding!" Both have their pros and cons. That's how it is.

Ultem Major manufacturing countries: Korea = Taiwan > China

Have you ever seen a shape-memory plastic frame that stretches and snaps back into place? That's the main one. There's also Ultem, which doesn't have that. That's basically it.

Basically, they are made using a method called "injection molding." The main countries of production are Korea, Taiwan, and some parts of China. It may be that we just don't know about them in Japan, but I don't think they're manufactured there.

So why don't you see this among domestic manufacturers or brands? Why is it only sold by major chains? The answer is simple: because the "minimum lot" is large.

For brands that want to make many molds, it is extremely difficult to make and sell them if the minimum lot size for one mold is large. Another example is "ODM," which simply adds a name to an existing product without a minimum lot size.

However, this isn't necessarily a bad thing. After all, it does return to its original shape, right? Shape memory might be great for people who often break their frames.

The downside is that it might be difficult to fit (although I don't think it was designed with that concept in mind).

By the way, this is the raw material for 3D printer brands, and recently it has become laminated titanium. Designers also like it, but I have never done it. (I have purchased and sold it, but I have never planned it.)

TR-90
Main manufacturing countries: China > Southeast Asia in general > Taiwan

It's a name that sounds like something you'd see in Star Wars... It's a type of "plastic." I think this is the type of plastic that people write "plastic" on purpose instead of "acetate." (Acetate is often written as "acetate.")

At our company, when we say "Pla" as mentioned above, we mean "acetate," but I think that many major companies now call it "Pla."

This material is mainly used in a manufacturing method called "injection molding." Why don't you see it in domestic manufacturers and brands? The answer is simple: the "minimum lot size" is large. Well, our company, or rather our designers, don't plan "injection molding products."

Because it looks "cheap"...

I think there are rotating displays in bookstores and merchandise stores, and the sunglasses they have there are almost all like this. To put it simply, "When you pick it up, you'll notice that it's an abnormally light plastic frame."

Occasionally, I only touch the ODM products I have purchased and make suggestions to apparel companies that want cheap products. Also, sometimes you will see the words "acetate" and "TR-90", but this is usually

-The front is acetate and the temples are TR-90.

The principle behind this combination is (for example) to cheaply make 1,000 temples of the same shape + to make 5 types of 200 front pieces = 5 different designs are completed. As long as you can design the joints of the front and temples to fit together perfectly, you can "free up the molds for 5 types of temples!" and "That's a considerable cost savings!"

However, the advantage is that the clear fabric is " incredibly beautiful! "

Of course, the product and the method of creation are perfectly rational ideas, and I don't dislike them, but I don't think our shop designers would be involved in planning them.

Acrylic Major manufacturing countries: Worldwide (※Acrylic companies occasionally plan to produce them)

It may seem a little late to say this, but this is actually quite good. Especially the clear texture . It has an overwhelming sense of transparency. And it's strong. Like celluloid, it doesn't need a core.

The disadvantages are that it is extremely difficult to process because it has no elasticity. And it is extremely heavy.

On the other hand, if these disadvantages can be overcome, I think it could be a very bright material for the future. I wonder why they don't do it. I think it will probably end with a simple "why not just use acetate?"

Bones and horns (such as buffalo horn)
Main manufacturing countries: China > Thailand > Taiwan etc.

These are made from horns that are sold at street stalls in Vietnam. They have a unique texture.

It can be made in the same way as acetate, but the downside is that it's very hard and has an awful smell when you make it (in a bad way). Some people say acetate is fine... But just like wood, it can't compare to the " real texture ."

Tortoiseshell
Where are the major manufacturing countries that stock hawksbill shells?

It's very expensive. Just expensive. Also, like bones and horns, it's a bit like a living thing, so as a designer, I'm reluctant to use it...

This pattern is what is known as "DEMI." Yellow tortoiseshell and white tortoiseshell patterns are valuable. (I've heard that the more yellow it is, the more valuable it is.)

It is difficult to obtain it due to the protection treaty, so I think it should be purchased by people who value it and take that into consideration. Also, my impression is that the actual item is certainly beautiful.

Disadvantages: It's expensive and hard to find.

Now, it's a metal material .
Alloy materials (nickel, etc.)
Main manufacturing countries: China > Taiwan > Southeast Asia

It's cheap! It's fast! It's easy to process! It's a material like beef bowl (lol). It's not bad at all. In fact, the price varies widely, so it's hard to generalize. However, many people are allergic to it (including the designer himself). As I will explain later, I think that with metal, "it's all about the surface treatment and polishing."

Stainless steel Major manufacturing countries: China = Germany > France & Italy > Taiwan, South Korea = North America

It is the mainstream metal material for eyeglasses around the world. Recently, there are various types of stainless steel, including sustainable, allergy-free stainless steel. There are even some that will return to the earth if buried in the ground.

Anyway, the mainstream of glasses is stainless steel , not titanium.

It is strong and can be created with minimum effort by "punching" (using a laser or cutting machine, known in industrial terms as "punching") sheets of about 0.8 mm (or thicker), making it undoubtedly the strongest material from a manufacturing perspective.

A certain German brand is famous for its plate cutting, and this is also the manufacturing method used by a famous Japanese domestic brand that I always greet at Japanese exhibitions. (I think they use titanium.)

As I will explain later, as mentioned above, they are not made in Japan (or rather, they cannot be made; they probably could, but they stubbornly refuse to do so).

The downside is that the surface treatment and painting techniques in the manufacturing country are slightly inferior to those in Japan, so the product looks a little, no, really a little rough. On the other hand, if they give clear instructions on this, I think it would be the best. Also, if it's not allergy-free, it can cause allergies.

Gold (pure gold)
Main manufacturing countries: China > Japan > Korea & Taiwan

Japan used to be number one. Now there are only about three companies left. The designer was the only company that could work with solid gold, so there were always several gold bars in the safe.

Gold is also popular in China. As an aside, when you're in trouble, you can sell it by the gram, not to an optician, but to a place in town that says "We buy gold!", so some people buy it for speculative purposes.

There's no need to plate it, because it's gold.

Disadvantages: It's hard to get your hands on one, and they aren't sold or made. However, they are readily available in gold specialty stores in Hong Kong.

Sun Platinum Major country of origin: Japan (I've only heard of it)

There was a time when I planned something and someone said to me, "That brings back memories! That's great! But I won't buy it!", but no one bought it...

However, it has a unique color. The weight is just right. I think it's a favorite among enthusiasts.

Designers like to say things like that, but although they planned this, it was so ignored (although there were many people who felt nostalgic), that the company wouldn't allow it to be sold...

NT (alloy)
Major manufacturing countries: Korea > China > Japan

This is what's known as a "shape memory alloy." The industry term for this is "NT." The mixing ratio varies depending on the company, so if you're interested, please look into it.

Japan used to be number one, but was overtaken by China and Korea. I had the impression that Japan had two points in the NT!

Examples of METRONOME frames include the Siesta and Strobolight . Basically, they belong to the main material titanium.

Disadvantages: Fairly expensive. It's hard to get the hang of it. There are so few places that make it that it's hard to find.

Titanium (beta and other titanium alloys)
Major manufacturing countries: Japan > China > Korea

When I say "titanium" at an overseas exhibition, I get asked, "Is it Japan? China? Korea?" It's only produced in these three countries (Taiwan might be one too).

In fact, if you say "metal frame" to a factory in Japan, they will assume that you mean "beta titanium." In fact, if you say "I want it made from stainless steel," they will just dismiss it, saying, "It's too much trouble, why not just use titanium?"

Advantages: Japan is accustomed to manufacturing, so manufacturing is very easy.
・Since I'm familiar with it, plating and painting are easy and the quality is good. ・I can design very thin designs.

Disadvantages (from my own experience)
・High cost ・We often hear overseas, "Why titanium? Isn't stainless steel good enough?" ・As a result, when overseas shops that are used to stainless steel try to repair their products at their overseas stores, they have to ship them directly back to Japan because neighboring countries cannot handle them. As a result, the shipping costs are seen as a burden and they often pass on the idea.
・Re-plating is a hassle ・There are only a few plating shops, so it is cost-prohibitive ・The fate of production days is almost decided by how to keep the plating shops under control